Article Overview:

  • Building rapport with your portrait subjects
  • Lighting setups for flattering portraits
  • Posing techniques for natural-looking results
  • Lens selection for different portrait styles
  • Retouching essentials that maintain authenticity

Portrait photography is as much about psychology as it is about technical skill. The ability to connect with your subject, make them feel comfortable, and capture their authentic essence is what separates good portraits from truly memorable ones. In this comprehensive guide, I'll share the techniques I've developed over 15 years as a portrait photographer to help you create images that don't just look good, but truly reflect the personality and spirit of your subjects.

Building Rapport with Your Subject

The most crucial element of successful portrait photography happens before you even pick up your camera.

Pre-Session Communication

Start building a relationship with your subject well before the shoot. Discuss their expectations, any concerns they might have, and what they hope to achieve from the session. This not only helps you prepare better but also begins establishing trust.

Creating Comfort During the Session

When the shooting day arrives:

  • Begin with casual conversation unrelated to the shoot
  • Explain what you're doing as you work
  • Show your subject some of the images as you go (if appropriate)
  • Provide gentle direction rather than rigid instructions
  • Offer genuine compliments when something works well

Working with Challenging Subjects

Not everyone is naturally comfortable in front of the camera. For camera-shy subjects:

  • Give them something to do with their hands
  • Use prompts that evoke genuine emotions rather than asking them to smile
  • Shoot through something (like foliage) so they don't feel the full weight of the lens
  • Use a longer lens and give them more physical space

Lighting for Flattering Portraits

Lighting is the painter's palette in portrait photography, capable of completely transforming the mood and feel of your images.

Natural Light Techniques

Natural light is versatile, accessible, and when used correctly, incredibly flattering:

  • Window Light: Position your subject at a 45-degree angle to a large window for soft, directional light that sculpts features beautifully.
  • Golden Hour: The hour after sunrise or before sunset provides warm, flattering light that's forgiving on skin.
  • Open Shade: On bright days, find areas of open shade to avoid harsh shadows and squinting.
  • Reflectors: Use reflectors to bounce light back into shadow areas, especially under the eyes.
Portrait photographer working with natural light

Working with natural window light can create stunning, dimensional portraits

Studio Lighting Setups

For those with access to studio equipment, these classic setups provide excellent starting points:

  • Loop Lighting: Creates a small shadow of the nose on the cheek. Position the main light slightly above eye level and about 45 degrees from the camera.
  • Rembrandt Lighting: Characterized by the triangular patch of light on the cheek opposite the light source. Creates a more dramatic, moody effect.
  • Butterfly Lighting: Main light positioned directly in front of and above the subject, creating a butterfly-shaped shadow under the nose. Flattering for defined cheekbones.
  • Split Lighting: Illuminates half the face, leaving the other half in shadow. Creates dramatic portraits with strong visual impact.

Using Flash Effectively

Flash doesn't have to look artificial:

  • Bounce flash off walls or ceilings for softer light
  • Use diffusers to soften direct flash
  • Consider off-camera flash for more dimensional lighting
  • Balance flash with ambient light for a natural look

Posing Techniques for Natural Results

Good posing makes subjects look their best while still appearing natural and relaxed.

Fundamental Principles

  • Create angles: Straight lines appear larger in photos. Have subjects turn slightly and avoid squaring shoulders directly to camera.
  • Mind the chin: Guide subjects to extend their chin slightly forward and down to define the jawline.
  • Consider hand placement: Hands can look awkward if not posed thoughtfully. Give them something to do or keep them relaxed.
  • Watch the spine: A slight curve in the spine (leaning forward slightly) can create a more engaged, attentive look.

Group Posing

For group portraits:

  • Create triangular arrangements rather than straight lines
  • Position heads at different heights
  • Connect people physically through touch where appropriate
  • Ensure everyone's face is clearly visible and not blocked by others

Movement and Flow

Some of the most compelling portraits capture movement or the transition between poses:

  • Give subjects action prompts: "Walk toward me slowly," "Turn gradually while looking at the camera"
  • Capture genuine laughter by having subjects interact
  • Use continuous shooting mode to capture fleeting expressions

Lens Selection for Portrait Photography

Your choice of lens dramatically affects both the look of your portrait and how you interact with your subject.

Prime vs. Zoom Lenses

While high-quality zoom lenses offer versatility, prime lenses often provide:

  • Superior sharpness
  • Better low-light performance (larger maximum apertures)
  • More pleasing bokeh (background blur)
  • Lighter weight and more discreet appearance

Focal Length Considerations

  • 85mm-105mm: Often considered the "sweet spot" for portraits on full-frame cameras. Provides flattering compression and comfortable working distance.
  • 50mm: Versatile for environmental portraits and full-body shots. On crop-sensor cameras, approaches the classic portrait focal length.
  • 135mm: Creates beautiful compression and background separation, ideal for headshots with minimal facial distortion.
  • 35mm: Wider angle allows for environmental context while still maintaining some subject isolation.

Aperture Choices

While shallow depth of field (f/1.4-f/2.8) is popular for its dreamy background blur:

  • Consider stopping down to f/4-f/5.6 for group portraits to ensure everyone's in focus
  • Be careful with very shallow depth of field (f/1.2-f/1.4) as you may lose critical sharpness on features like eyes
  • Don't assume every portrait needs shallow depth of field—sometimes including the environment adds valuable context

Retouching That Maintains Authenticity

Post-processing is an integral part of portrait photography, but the best retouching is often invisible.

The Ethics of Portrait Retouching

Consider your approach to retouching carefully:

  • Remove temporary blemishes but retain permanent features that are part of a person's identity
  • Enhance rather than completely change someone's appearance
  • Be especially thoughtful when retouching portraits of children and teens
  • When in doubt, opt for less retouching rather than more

Essential Retouching Techniques

  • Skin smoothing: Use frequency separation or carefully applied blur to even skin tone while preserving texture
  • Dodge and burn: Enhance natural facial contours and reduce temporary shadows
  • Eyes and teeth: Brighten moderately, being careful to maintain realism
  • Color grading: Create a consistent look that complements your subject's complexion
Before and after portrait retouching

Subtle retouching enhances while maintaining the subject's natural appearance

Conclusion

Great portrait photography is a beautiful dance between technical skill and interpersonal connection. The best portrait photographers are those who can make their subjects feel comfortable enough to reveal their true selves while simultaneously mastering the technical elements that make those authentic moments look their absolute best.

Remember that portraiture is ultimately about the person, not the photographer. Your technical choices should serve the goal of presenting your subject in a way that feels both authentic and flattering. When you succeed, you create not just a photograph, but a meaningful representation of a human being that they'll treasure for years to come.

As you develop your portrait photography skills, focus first on connection and lighting—these two elements will have the greatest impact on your results. Technical perfection means little if your subject looks uncomfortable or if the lighting doesn't enhance their features.

Sarah Williams

About the Author

Sarah Williams is a portrait photographer with over 15 years of experience specializing in natural, authentic portraiture. Her work has been featured in Vogue, Elle, and numerous photography exhibitions. Sarah is passionate about helping photographers develop meaningful connections with their subjects.